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I love a good tartarmad as much as anybody and have already posted about the traditional way of preparing it, but I've been stricken with the uncontrollable urge to explore non-traditional variations of classic smørrebrød, and wanted to share a recent discovery with fans of Danish Sandwiches!

A delicious treat for lunch and day of the week!
Just looking at it now makes my mouth water!
First of all, I have to acknowledge Aamanns restaurant in Copenhagen as the source of this new tasty treat. I was perusing the various blogs with posts about smørrebrød and I came across a great post by some food-savvy tourists who were visiting Copenhagen and ended up spending some quality time at my favourite smørrebrød joint. In the blog, they went into painstaking detail on the many sandwiches they ordered, taking close-up photos of each. It is from one of these photos that found my inspiration.


One of the things I love about Aamanns, and its especially true with this sandwich, is how the various ingredients so thoroughly complement each other - texture, flavour, and appearance are all harmoniously in balance and wonderfully unified by the Danish rye bread. I also love the way Aamanns comes up with new variations on traditional themes in a way that allows the old and the new to co-exist together.


From a design & architecture standpoint, this is something I pick up on when I visit Denmark. Sure it’s a very old country with a rich history, but the people don’t live in the past – they are constantly updating their environment to bring the old and the new together in ways I find very cool. For instance, you can see many examples in Copenhagen where new modern structures (say the Metro system) stand in juxtaposition to the historic landmarks (say Kongens Nytorv), in a way that enhances the overall appearance. (This is just my non-scholarly opinion – there may be groups of design advocates out there who will want my head on a platter for saying this – who knows???)

Here are a couple of architectural examples of the old and the new living side-by-side in Copenhagen:
 
Metro system at Kongens Nytorv:
Pyramids provide entrance for lighting in undergound system
UNIBANK Headquarters, Copenhagen:
New modern architecture, part of its surroundings
OK, let’s get back to the topic at hand – something I feel a lot more comfortable bloggin about - a new tartarmad sandwich. You'll need:

Fancy tartarmad: What you'll need to make it

  • Buttered Danish rye bread
  • Chopped uncooked beef
  • Creamy egg sauce (though egg yolks would be just fine, too)
  • Cornichon
  • Red onion rings
  • Fresh tarragon
  • Crispy sliced potatoes

Buttered Danish rye is the foundation upon which this great sandwich is built. Homemade is best, but don't let that get in the way of enjoying this masterpiece - store bought is better than nothing.

Chopped beef: It only takes a few minutes,
but watch your fingers! 
Chopped beef - When making tartar, you want to get a great piece of meet from an excellent quality butcher. Ask for something like flank steak or sirloin of you want something with a bit of fat (i.e taste). Use filet mignon if you want the ultimate in tenderness. You need about 200g for 4 sandwiches. Then you want to take that tasty meat and hand chop it with a sharp knife as finely as you can reasonably manage. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use.

Egg yolk or "Magic Sauce" - Egg yolk, with its rich velvety texture, goes so well with raw meat it's scary. Cooked egg yolks, on the other hand, don't work at all and are a very poor substitute for the real raw thing. And while I love eating raw egg yolks with tartar, some people get all weird about possibly poisoning themselves, so here are a couple of alternatives:

·    Quickly pasteurize the egg yolks in a double-boiler until they are warm, but not cooked. Careful that the yolks don’t seize up.
·    Whip up a batch of what my friends and I mysteriously call Magic Sauce – basically a rich custard-like mixture with a slight hint of mustard. Here’s my recipe:


The things you'll need for Magic Sauce...
Ingredients for Magic Sauce:
  • 3 egg yolks, beaten
  • 125ml whipping cream
  • 1 heaping TBSP Dijon mustard
  • Salt and pepper to taste
What to do:
1. Gently heat the cream until it is frothy and very hot
2. Pour a little bit of hot cream into the yolks, stirring constantly, to temper the yolks. This will ensure that they do not curdle when added to the rest of the cream.
3. Add the yolks into the rest of the cream and heat over a bain-marie while stirring constantly until the mixture has thickened (about 5 minutes).

Whip it good!
4. Remove from heat and allow the mixture to cool completely.
5. Add the mustard, salt and pepper and refrigerate until ready to use. It should have the consistency of mayonnaise.

Red onions, cornichon, tarragon, and crispy potatoes – These ingredients should all be readily available to you. If you want to be really fancy, you can deep fry your own potato slices, but my taste testers were more than happy to eat this sandwich topped with potato chips (use a good unsalted kind of chip from a company like Miss Vickie’s or Cape Cod)

Some Assembly Required

To assemble the sandwich, you simply spread out enough chopped up beef to cover the rye bread, add a dollop or two of “Magic Sauce” and cover artfully with the remaining ingredients. Enjoy with a cold beer, fork and knife!

This smørrebrød looks great, tastes great, and is easy to make. What more can you ask for!
I've been thinking a lot lately about the whole New Nordic cooking craze, which is now getting a lot of attention thanks no doubt to the popularity of NOMA in Copenhagen.

By blog has always been about traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches, so I can safely say that I am completely clueless on this new-fangled Scandinavian cooking movement, but people keep asking me about the relationship between my recipes and those of, say, NOMA, and I'm tired of dodging the questions. So now I am really curious to know more about what New Nordic cooking is all about.

Juicy Red Currents in Danish Backyard
I did a little digging and here's what I learned...

The movement began to take root after NOMA was founded in 2003 by head chef Rene Redzepi and Claus Meyer. It was basically a backlash against the bland eveness of food created from hundreds of years of puritanical eating habits, the latest in mega-farming agro efficiencies as well as the institutionalized concepts that only great foods from Europe's culinary meccas meritted the attention of smart local foodies. Olive Oil, Iberico Ham, Truffles, and Foie Gras were all the rage, yet had nothing to do with the local Scandinavian ingredients. Could these be the only foods worthy of eating? Meyer, Redzepi and other great Nordic chefs did not think so. And so, they created the New Nordic Kitchen manifesto, which has allowed Nordic food culture to take its place among the giants of culinary tradition.

As best I can tell, there were three main concepts at the root of the New Nordic manifesto:
  1. Use only local ingredients - they have such rich and diverse foods to choose from, why go elsewhere?
  2. Use seasonal ingredients - to better live harmoniously with nature
  3. Prepare healthy foods - rich in grains, fish, fruits and vegetables - without being bland. Good food is meant to delight and give pleasure to the eater
But perhaps, most importantly, they needed small and large food producers in Scandinavia to buy in to the concepts - this was not meant to be elitist - it was all about the quality of the primary ingredients.

And I couldn't agree more! I've tried, with the recipes in my blog, to use high-quality local ingredients to produce beautiful and delicious open-faced sandwiches.

Here are a few of the names (that I know) in today's New Nordic Kitchen movement:

Claus Meyer - Co-founder of NOMA and Danish culinary enterpreneur. Meyer has hosted TV shows such as PBS's "New Scandinavian Cooking" and runs several differnt food-related companies. Learn more about Meyer here.

René Redzepi - Co-founder and the genius head chef of NOMA, the world's current #1 restaurant. I've watched a number of his videos on Youtube, and have found it fascinating how he is able to create beautiful looking meals from locally forgared ingredients. Check out one of his Youtube videos about oysters here.

Contemplating the NOMA cookbook - things I will probably never make
By the way, the name NOMA is a contraction of nordisk (nordic) and mad (food).

I know it's random, but the name NOMA always made me think of the Roberto Duran quote after his last fight with Sugar Ray Leonard. ("¡No mas!")

Trine Hahnemann Cookbooks
Trine Hahnemann - Chef, enterpreneur and caterer to the rich and famous, Trine Hahnemann has authored a number of great books on Nordic cuisine including one of my kitchen bookshelf favorites - The Scandinavian Cookbook - with seasonal recipes from different parts of Scandinavia (including several open-faced sandwiches and useful bread recipes). Maybe if I had her books 10 years ago, I wouldn't need my blog today! Learn more about Trine Hahnemann at her website.

Adam Aamann - Possibly my favorite of the bunch due to his excellence in smørrebrød, Adam is the owner and head chef of Aamanns, a Copenhagen restaurant focusing on the open sandwich, using organic and seasonal ingredients. In 2007, he was awarded an honorary diploma from the Danish Academy of Gastronomy for his efforts to raise the open-sandwich to an art form. I love eating his art! He has recently opened an Aamanns restaurant in Tribeca in New York City - if he can make it there, he can make it anywhere!

Outside Aamanns in NYC:
I guess they don't eat smorrebrod for dinner in NY either!

Use seasonal, local ingredients
OK, so why am I thinking about all this stuff at this point? Well as much as I love the traditional open-faced sandwiches that I've described and documented in the blog, I feel like it's time to begin exploring a few new ideas, based on many of the same principles of New Nordic cooking, but of course, using ingredients that are more commonly found in my part of the world - Montreal and the Quebec region (which has it own culture of locally-produced and seasonal ingredients). Who knows? Maybe I'll end up opening a new eatery showcasing the finest in Montreal area foods. If it happens, I'll be naming the place MOFO for sure!

I'm not sure what I'll come up with yet,  but I'm looking forward to delving into the new possibilities. Meanwhile, I've still got a few traditional recipes to work on - think CHEESE - so keep following and hopefully you'll find a recipe or two you might actually want to make yourself one day.  

Gettin' rid of Thanksgiving leftovers the Danish way!
Shhhhhh, don't tell any Danes, but I've been secretly experimenting in my subterranean smørrebrød lab looking for a way of transforming boring Thanksgiving leftovers into exciting open-faced sandwiches. So, what you are about to see doesn't qualify as an officially sanctioned Danish smørrebrød, but the concept adheres to the rules, and it tastes pretty darn good! Of course, if any Dane reports me to the Ministry of Smørrebrød Affairs, I may get my license revoked, but I need to do something to get rid of my leftovers, and I can't stand another Turkey Pot Pie - so I feel like it's worth the risk.

The real deal!
This blog post, however, isn’t a complete non-Danish flight of fancy, since there is one very important Danish ingredient that you will need if you want to make this open sandwich, and I’m pretty sure you won’t find it in your local grocery store. This ingredient is called syltede græskar (which means pickled pumpkin - perfect for Thanksgiving) and it’s a really old-school traditional smørrebrød topping that is awesome with leverpostej. Problem is...I've never seen it outside of Denmark (it's even tricky to find there nowadays). So, we'll need to make it ourselves. Here's how...





Ingredients for syltede græskar:
  • 1.5 kg pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and sliced into 1cm strips
  • Brine
  • Pickling liquid
  • 3-4 mason jars
Brine
  • 1 litre water
  • 100g salt
  • 200ml vinegar
You'll need some pumpkin...
Pickling liquid
  • 500ml vinegar
  • 350ml sugar
  • 5 cloves
  • 1 vanilla bean, pulp removed
  • 2 cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces
  • 2 cm piece of fresh ginger, thinly sliced
Instructions
  • Soak the sliced pumpkin in the brine solution for 24 hours.
  • Drain pumpkin slices in colander.
  • Heat pickling liquid ingredients over medium heat until sugar dissolves.
  • Add sliced pumpkin to pickling liquid, and bring to a gradual boil.
  • Remove from heat, then distribute pumpkin and spice pieces between clean mason jars.
  • Cover with hot pickling liquid and seal jars loosely.
  • Seal jars tightly when completely cooled and store for 1-2 weeks before enjoying on your favorite smørrebrød.
Syltrede græskar - try finding that in a grocery store!
OK, now that you have your pickled pumpkin, you are ready to make the Thanksgiving leftover smørrebrød. 


Here is what I used, but for this one, feel free to adlib.
  • Sliced turkey breast
  • Pickled pumpkin (Syltede Græskar)
  • Fried onions
  • Cranberry sauce
  • Parsley
Slap all the ingredients together atop a slice of buttered Danish rye bread, serve with cold lager beer, and enjoy with knife and fork!

Sandwich danois de l'Épicerie
Bienvenue à tous les lecteurs qui ont découvert mon blog grâce au show “L’Épicerie” sur la chaine Radio Canada. Merci de prendre le temps de visiter ce blog. 

J’espère que vous allez vous régaler en lisant mon bouillon de culture mélangeant faits et fictions  sur la spécialité danoise des sandwichs ouverts connus sous le nom de smørrebrød.

Étant canadien d’origine danoise, j’ai toujours été intéressé par la riche tradition danoise des smørrebrøds.  A travers les années, j’ai appris et j’ai développé des recettes de sandwichs danois. Je les ai adaptées avec les produits disponibles dans les épiceries, les boucheries et les magasins spécialisés de Montréal.
Le but de ce blog est de publier ces recettes pour que les personnes qui partagent ma passion pour la cuisine danoise puissent l’apprécier dans leur propre cuisine (sans devoir se rendre jusqu’au Danemark) ou tout simplement en apprécier la lecture.

Bien que ce site soit en anglais, j’espère que les téléspectateurs de “L’Épicerie” qui ont pris le temps de visiter mon blog le trouveront intéressant.

J’ai écrit beaucoup de recettes sur ce blog mais j’aimerais vous guider vers les plus populaires.


Il y a encore plusieurs recettes à venir, donc n’oubliez pas de revenir pour d’autres visites.

Encore merci de votre intérêt, laissez-moi vos commentaires. J’essaierai de répondre à tout le monde.
Stjerneskud - AKA "The Shooting Star"
I'm finally back from a long summer vacation full of Danish-inspired, soul soothing activities: rod fishing for herring in the Roskilde Fjord, making elderflower cordials and rosehip jam in Lolland, sunbathing topless in Skagen, bicycling around Bornholm... and I'm ready to get back to bloggin'. Think of this as the season premiere of Danish Sandwich. And what always happens in the season premiere? You start with a bang!!!

Now, when it comes to open-faced sandwiches, there is no bigger bang that the over-the-top Stjernesjud (or Shooting Star in English). So that is what this blog post is about...

Easily Denmark's craziest concept open-faced sandwich, the Shooting Star is both a treat to the eyes and an extravaganza to the taste buds. How can I describe this famous construction? Well, it's basically a combination of every known fish and seafood topping you find in the common sandwich toolkit - it's what the average Dane could potentially make with the leftover smørrebrød toppings from a large family gathering - and in fact, that is why I am making this very treat - loads of leftovers!

The concept is based on the 1st cardinal rule of gastrony: that if one yummy thing tastes good, then therefore it stands to reason that five yummy things must taste five times better!  

What makes up a stjernekud?
The essential ingredients are the following (recipes are available with other blog posts):
Basically, you pile it all up on the bread, fitting it all as best as possible, not worrying too much about spill over. Then go to town with fork and knife and beer. Decadent! Scrumptious! Awesome! Words can barely describe...

Anyway, you shouldn't take my word for it. Make it yourself and enjoy. However, if you aren't able to make this yourself, but you happen to be visiting Denmark, here are a few excellent spots where you can find a professional Danish-chef who will gladly make a stjernesjud for you.

NYHAVN - The postcard-beautiful 17th century street that sits in the heart of the Copenhagen harbour district is rife with tourist-friendly eateries (like Told & Snaps) that will gladly overcharge anybody for the pleasure of eating stjerneskud, and other, dramatically emblematic smørrebrød. Trust me. I’ve paid more than my fair share at a couple of these places – but it’s OK – I chalk it up to culinary research and move on.

Nyhavn
Told&Snaps: A fancy smørrebrød joint on Nyhavn

Ferry boat: Great place for smørrebrød
Scandline ferry from Germany to Denmark  - Once upon a time, there was no quicker way of getting to Copenhagen from continental Europe than taking a ferry boat. My preferred route went from Puttgarden in Germany to Rødby on the Danish island of Lolland. As soon as the boat was a sea, I’d dash to the cafeteria ahead of the rest of the crowd (who were apparently more concerned with buying cartons of duty free cigarettes) so that I could be first in line to order the Scandline ferry version of the stjerneskud – usually a simple open sandwich of fried Plaice filet covered in a heaping mound of shrimp and a dollop of remoulade. Nothing said “Welcome to Denmark” more effectively. The blue neon sign in Kaastrup International Airport baggage hall is a distant second.



GILLELEJE - I love this picturesque little fishing village on the northern coast of Sealand (Copenhagen’s island). Here you can find local specialties like smoked eel and herring, Thai noodles, and heaping platters of stjerneskud. My advise – it’s all good, but don’t bother with the Thai noodles.







Delicious tomatmad - a summer delicacy not to be ignored!
Tomatmad is super delicious. Juicy and full of summer flavour. I think enjoying a tomatmad on your balcony with an ice cold øl is a very cool thing to do.

I know, I know. It doesn't sound that cool - in fact, to some it may even sound boring (shock and aghast!). "At least add some bacon," the skeptics say! Well I think they are totally wrong! Tomato, buttered Danish rye bread, mayo and chives, is about as yummy as any quick and easy lunch can get. You probably don't believe me, so I sought out an independent, unbiased opinion and asked a pretty Belgian woman to give me her opinion as she was enjoying a tomatmad with thickly sliced beefeater tomatoes, loads of fresh pepper and a bit of salt. She said: "Yum!" and went back to scarfing down her smørrebrød. I'm not making this up...

Yes, you need good ingredients - fresh summery tomatoes being vital as they are the tomat in tomatmad. So this smørrebrød should really only be eaten in the summer when local tomatoes are fresh, plump and at their best, the chives are plentiful, anf the rugbrød is chewy chewy good. And mayonnaise should be homemade if possible.

Availability of ingredients aside, tomatmad is to very easy to make - as easy as striking a match perhaps - though no cooking is requred. Therefore the Danish Degree of Difficulty is a Tordenskjold Easy. "And who is Tordenskjold," you ask?

Tordenskjold matches - as Danish as apple pie is American
Peter Jansen Wessel Tordenskiold (1691 – 1720) was quite possibly Denmark's most famous naval hero. No doubt because of his badass-ness, as maybe a bit because of the similarity to his last real last name, he was known far and wide as Tordenskjold, or Thunder Shield in Danish, indeed a cool name! Though he is well known for his victory over the Swedes in the battle of Dynekilen, today he is most definitely best known as the face of Danish matchsticks. A strange honour, to be sure, but he is certainly a household name all over Denmark. Learn more about the exploits of Tordenskjold here.

And just like Tomatmad, Tordenskjold begins with the letter T. That is all the commonality I need to draw comparisons! While I'm on the topic of T, here are a few other very cool Danish things that start with the magnificent 15th letter of the alphabet.

Tivoli. Tivoli Gardens is the original fairytale kingdom - sitting right in the heart of Copenhagen. Opened in 1843, Tivoli was to the 19th century what "Disneyland" or "6 Flags Great America" are to the 21st. As a child, I loved going to Tivoli, mainly for the food - fanciful smørrebrød (stjerneskyd was my favorite - I'll have to post about that one soon!!!) and incomparably ornate ice cream cones topped with flødeboller and other Danish candy delights! Check out Tivoli's website here.

Tivoli Gardens - Copenhagen's Fairytale Playground

Crazily-strong
Danish salt licorice candies

Tyrisk Peber - A typical Danish salt licorice candy. Not actually flavoured with salt, but rather ammonia (even better!), these candies are definitely an acquired taste. I love them, but when I offer them to friends, they usually end up dashing to spit them out in the trash. Whimps!    

 Thorvaldsen - The great Danish sculptor. Bertel Thorvaldsen (1771-1844) was the toast of Rome in his heyday for his fine depictions of heroic figures done in a Neo-Classical style. There is a beautiful museum in his honour - one that you must see if you are visiting Copenhagen - they might even have delicious smørrebrød in the museum cafe. If you aren't able to visit Copenhagen, check out his museum website here.  
Thorvaldsen's Venus - hubba hubba!

Thor - The Norse God of Thundser himself and one of the coolest Deities period. He always loved a good scuffle, and probably did not eat Tomatmad or any other smørrebrød for that matter (the only strike against him).

Mighty Thor - proving that blondes have more fun!
Tog - The Danish word for train. I love traveling by train in Denmark - you can always enjoy a good smørrebrød in the dining carbut I especially love the cool look of the the Danish national train map.

Cool Danish Train Map

So, yeah, this post was a bit rambling. And yeah, Thor and tomatmad have nothing in common. But trains, Tivoli, and Thorvaldsen's museum are all great places to enjoy Denmark, and maybe even a smørrebrød or two! SkÃ¥l!


It's been a while since the last contest (back in Februrary), in which readers resoundingly elected Gravad Laks (cured salmon) as their favourite seafood smørrebrød. Now it's time to cast your ballots in favour of your favourite meat treat. Here are the contestants:

Ham with Italiensk Salat
Liver paté with pickled beets
Tartarmad (beef tartare)
Dyrlægens Natmad
Hønsesalat (chicken Salad)
Medisterpølse with cucumber salad
Tongue Salad