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Variations on Agurkersalat

By 09.01 , , , , , ,

I love a good agurkersalat - the popular Danish condiment made from freshly pickled dill cucumbers. For me, the wonderful tart freshness of the sour/sweet cucumber dish is a perfect complement to many an open-faced sandwich. And while it is available in shops in Denmerk, here in Canada, you need to make it yourself if you want to experience this deliciously-Scandianvian taste (which for me is a complete no-brainer, since it easy, and tastes so much better this way anyway).

Agurkersalat: Ready to eat!
Here are the basic ingredients you will need to make your agurkersalat (but as you will see, you can experiment):
  • 1 whole seedless cucumber - sliced thinly
  • 1 TBSP salt
  • 1 1/2 cups vinegar
  • 2 TBSP sugar
  • 3 TBSP chopped dill
  • A bit more salt and pepper, to taste
Instructions for Making Agurkesalat
  1. Using a sharp knife, thinly slice the entire cucumber.
  2. Place the sliced cucumber in a bowl and toss with the coarse salt. The salt will help suck out the liquid from the cucumber flesh.
  3. Put a small plate on top of the cucumbers in the bowl and weigh it down with a jar or other weighted object.
  4. After about 2 hours, you will notice that the cucumber slices are basically sitting in a bowl of salty water. Drain the salty water, squeezing out as much excess liquid as possible (without crushing the cucumber).
  5. Combine vinegar and sugar, heating slightly if necessary to dissolve. Make sure to cool thoroughly before adding to sliced cucumbers.
  6. Pour in the vinegar/sugar and stir in the chopped dill. Allow the mixture to sit in the refrigerator for a couple of hours (or overnight) before using to allow the flavours to blend.
OK, so that was la methode traditonelle - Anyway, I decided to play around with different locally available vinegars, to see what the resulting agurkersalat would be like. A delicious revelation? A disgusting aberration worthy only of contempt? Risks aside, this seemed like a good idea to me, since pickled condiments are such a big part of smørrebrød and I wanted to get a sense of whether I could improve my recipes by simply modifying the basic ingredients.

I went to the local supermarket to raid the vinegar section, thinking there would be a good selection of artisanal vinegars, but was dismayed to find about 25 varieties of Maille French vinegar a few boring looking Pastene options. So I left and went to my favorite green grocer. Here I found a couple of what seemed like worthy options. They were:

L'Ancestral Apple Cider Vinegar - A commonly available Quebec cider vinegar, which for my taste buds is a little too rough around the edges - but who knows, maybe it's great in agurkersalat (costs about $5 a bottle). Read more about it here.

Verger Corriveau Apple Cider Vinegar - A high-end artisanal vinegar with an exquisitely balanced fruit apple flavour - so nice you can almost drink it. (costs about $13/bottle)

I also decided to use a bottle of Allen's White Vinegar as my control.

BTW, if you are interested in really fine vinegars, check out the vinegar offerings from Claus Meyer's Nordhavn Vinegar Brewery in Copenhagen - I wish we could get these vinegars in Quebec!


Contestants in the agurkersalat vinegar death match
Next, I had to make some choices around the sweetener I would use to balance out the tangy vinegar. Normally, I'd just use a couple of table spoonfuls of organic sugar, but in the death match, I needed something more interesting. I opted for an  amber maple syrup and buckwheat honey from Miels d'Anicet (awesome locally-produced organic honeys - not cheap, but so good. You can find out more about it here). And of course, plain white table sugar as the control substance.

The three different pickling liquids (left to right)
1) White vinegar and plain sugar
2) L'Ancestral vinegar and maple syrup
3) Verger Corriveau & d'Anicet honey
And of course the cucumber. For this I used a seedless English variety, but I like the idea of trying the Lebanese kind becasue of its smaller size (something for another day).


Once the cucumbers were salted and drained, I divided them up along with the chopped dill between the three pickling liquid "contestants" and let them sit overnight to absorb the lovely flavours.
The three contestants, ready for their moment in the spotlight
Finally, it was time for the taste test. I gathered up my small group of smørrebrød experts and prepared our tasting samples. We used small, canapé-sized, slices of Danish rye bread with leverpostej (liver paté) as the base upon which to taste the agurkersalat. And then we went to town!

The main event!
So, who was the winner?

The judges were split, but we unanimously agreed that the maple syrup + Ancestral Cider Vinegar came in last of the three  - it just didn’t taste right - adding bitter flavours that in my opinion were not complementary to the smørrebrød as a whole. On the other hand, the other two contestants both received high scores for providing that clean, tart taste we love with agurkersalat. For my money, the pickling liquid made from the Verger Corriveau cider vinegar was more interesting with complex fruitiness and the perfect balance of acid to sweetness, but in reality, the agurkersalat made from white vinegar and plain sugar did just fine in terms of making a good, fresh tasting condiment. All in all, it was a great battle!

And now, since I always like to toss a bit about Denmark in my posts, you'll notice that in the background of one of the taste test photo above there is a Danish flag. This type of adornment is a common thing to do in Denmark for birthday parties and holiday meals - basically to add a festive atmosphere to the food and dining table. I think this is just another example of one of those small details that goes in to making the Danish meal experience "hyggelig" (or cozy). 

Regarding the Danish flag, known as the Dannebrog, you probably didn't know it, but this is the world's oldest state flag in use by an independent nation, dating back to the early 1200s. The word Dannebrog litereally means "Danish Cloth." The flag features a white cross on a red background (the white cross for Christianity, the red probably for the armed forces or some such thing). Read more about the Danish National Flag here.  
Of course, in true Danish tradition, there is a good story behind the origin of the flag. Here it is: Danish forces were engaged in a fierce fight, and were getting thumped badly, during the Battle of Valdemar in Estonia (in 1209). They were about the surrender, when the flag literally fell from the heavens. The King grabbed the falling flag before it hit the ground, then waved it magestically to motivate the troops to victory. The Danes have used the flag ever since.  

There is a painting by Christian August Lorentzen from 1809 that is located in the Copenhagen museum Statens Museum for Kunst depicting the legendary moment that the Dannebrog fell from the sky. You can see it here.



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